EXCERPT page containing first few paragraphs. 2019-05-21 03:05:43
UA_SEARCH_BOT_null @ 22.214.171.124
For walk around use (point and autofocus and click), skip this page. In that working mode, the X-E1 is fine, and a pleasure to use.
For deliberate careful work, the X-E1 is one of the most frustrating cameras I have ever used because of operational design flaws. I wasted many hours on do/redo/redo/redo/redo/.../redo trying to deal with its insane behavior. See my comments on field use.
Here is a sampler of what made the X-E1 a non-starter for any kind of deliberate meticulous work.
- The lens focus resets when cameras is powered off (or it powers down), even when set to manual focus. This wrecks any carefully set up comparison, series of images, etc. Accurate focus is non-trivial for a comparison or aperture series, so a focus reset is “start over” behavior (studio or macro work could be affected here).
- The Live View zoom-in feature is somewhat better than useless: it does not allow scrolling around the frame.
- In Live View, the sharpness (apparently enhanced) is so deep that accurate critical focus is impossible. I never knew what I’d get; the images did not correspond to what I saw while focusing.
- The autofocus won’t focus on 3D targets properly; I finally gave up after seeing constant backfocus on my target.
- The self timer disables itself with power off, so one has to constantly re-enable it.
- The X-E1 resets its focus when the SD card is removed, so it is not possible to shoot an image, check it, then put the card back in and adjust— the focus has been reset to some arbitrary distance.
- The camera resets its focus under other conditions; at times deleting an image would reset focus.
- The camera makes strange unsettling focus-like noises from the lens that undermine confidence that it has kept the manual focus as carefully set.
- In manual focus mode, the camera overlays its idiotic distance scale on the image, so that it becomes difficult to see the bottom of the image. There is apparently no way to disable this behavior.
- Because the SD card cannot be extracted without removing the camera plate, one has to constantly screw/unscrew the camera plate (solution: a Really Right Stuff plate when available). Anyway, the camera resets focus when the SD card is removed.
Article continues for subscribers...
Diglloyd Guide to Mirrorless is by yearly subscription. Subscribe now for about 25 cents a day ($90/year).
BEST DEAL: get full access to ALL 8 PUBLICATIONS for only 68 cents a day ($249.95)!
Diglloyd Guide to Mirrorless offers comprehensive integrated coverage of most APS-C and full frame mirrorless cameras and lenses.
Special emphasis is placed on Sony full-frame, including Sony lenses and the high performance Zeiss Batis and Zeiss Loxia lenses plus Rokinon/Samyang and others. Fujifilm X, Olympus and Panasonic M4/3, Sigma dp Merrill and dp/sd Quattro are also covered in depth. Years in the making, it offers a wealth of material for choosing and using a mirrorless camera.
- Make better images by learning how to get the best results right away. For example, the best way to set up your Sony camera.
- Save money by choosing the right lens for your needs the first time, particularly with the numerous lenses available for Sony.
- Make better images, a sort of “cheat sheet” saving yourself months or years of ad-hoc learning—best practices and how-to and processing parameters are discussed and shown.
- Jaw-dropping image quality found nowhere else utilizing Retina-grade images up to full camera resolution, plus large crops.
- Real world examples with insights found nowhere else. Make sharper images just by understanding lens behavior you won’t read about elsewhere.
- Aperture series from wide open through stopped down, showing the full range of lens performance and bokeh.
- Optical quality analysis of field curvature, focus shift, sharpness, flare, distortion, and performance in the field.
Want a preview? Click on any page below to see an excerpt as well as extensive blog coverage, for example on Sony.