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Sony, Fix These Things and Win

See reviews on Sony mirrorless.

Sony is unlikely to take this advice, but here goes with the top five things Sony can do to take its full-frame mirrorless lineup to a much more credible level.

  1. Deliver a 36 - 50 megapixel mirrorless camera with an EFC shutter (zero vibration), so that peak image quality can be reliably achieved. Bonus points for a medium format sensor.
  2. Add a lossless-compressed 15-bit file format. Keep the 11+7 bit format for those who want it, but deliver ultra high image quality for those who want it (and make the electronics ultra clean, so that it really does matter).
  3. Deliver cameras with robust high strength lens mounts, not the toy-grade build of the current lineup that is seeing replacement products! Bonus points for weather sealing.
  4. Deliver 5-axis sensor image stabilization in this high-resolution camera.
  5. Deliver a 4MP EVF, built-in.
  6. Make the camera larger (somewhat): the buttons are too small and tight and fiddly compared to something nice, like a Nikon D810.
  7. Aggressively move the lens lineup forward, perhaps by paying Zeiss to extend the Loxia line quickly and with ultra high performance lens designs (Zeiss Otus grade, but half the price and near-perfect f/2.8 designs).

None of this is particularly difficult, but it would yield tremendous credibility.

Sony Image Stabilization and the Sony FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS Vario-Tessar

Get Sony Alpha A7 II at B&H Photo. Not yet available in the USA according to B&H Photo, but ought to be soon.

The Sony/Zeiss 16-35mm f/4 arrives any minute now tonight. UPS gives me a frustratingly late delivery schedule as the holidays approach: 6pm to as late as 8pm, which loses me an entire day of usage with new gear, with daylight long gone.

As noted previously, the Sony Alpha A7 II mirrorless camera introduces Olympus E-M1 style 5-axis image stabilization on its full frame sensor, which is a first for a full frame mirrorless camera (and no DSLR has it). And that type of image stabilization is the only image stabilization that works for wild rides (barring speciality gear).

It seems a near certainty that in-body image stabilization will be pushed into the entire A7 lineup (A7s, A7 II has it, A7R or A9 tbd camera). Thus it seems an unwise point in time to buy either the A7s or A7R.

For that matter, a camera lacking sensor image stabilzation (SIS) might come to be seen as rather sucky (assuming SIS has no real downsides and can be disabled as desired). Nikon, Canon are you still asleep? It’s low odds, but there is a chance that Sony might move from building electronic gizmos with cool and very useful features like SIS to well designed cameras for serious photographers, and that would be an existential threat to Nikon and Canon, even if the current compromised designs aren’t already.

Which leads me to a curious disconnect: optical image stabilization (OIS) always involves some compromise in image quality, and an ultra-wide zoom is the least needful of OIS.

So why produce an optically stabilized zoom when the camera will be doing it, and probably doing it better for that matter? It suggests that the Sony camera and lens development teams should put their heads together more often.

Or perhaps it’s more basic: the lens might have been designed well before the full-frame sensor stabilization was in the bag. Either way, it seems a shame that a 16-35mm f/4 couldn’t instead use the IS-group lens elements instead to raise optical quality, instead of devoting them to stabilization (the confusion of which to use with a sensor-stabilized camera is not a plus either).

  Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS
Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS

LensRentals.com Black Friday Sale

Rent cameras or lenses at LensRentals.com, buy use gear at LensAuthority.com.

  • 25% off any rental placed at Lensrentals.com using the code BLACKFRIDAY
  • Order must be placed between 8:30 AM CT on 11/26/14 and 11:59 PM CT on 12/1/14
  • Eligible for any rental with an arrival date before 4/1/15
  • Limit - 2 rental orders per person
  • Not combinable with any other promotions or coupons
  LensRentals.com Black Friday sale
LensRentals.com Black Friday sale

NEC PA322UHD 32-Inch Professional UltraHD 4K Expected Here Soon

See my review of the 24inch NEC EA244UHD 4K UltraHD display.

Order NEC PA322UHD with calibration software and calibrator unit
Order NEC PA322UHD WITHOUT software/hardware calibration

XRite i1 Display Pro | SpectraView II software

I expect to see the PA322UHD 32-Inch Professional UltraHD 4K display soon for review, because NEC tells me that the NEC warehouse now has them.

I like the bundled calibration option, but I’m told that if one buys the XRite i1 Display Pro separately, it will achieve the same result as the bundled unit. But bought separately, it can work with any display (but buy and use SpectraView II for calibrating NEC displays).

  NEC PA322UHD 32-inch 4K UltraHD Display
NEC PA322UHD 32-inch 4K UltraHD Display
  NEC PA322UHD inputs
NEC PA322UHD inputs

Ray B writes:

I wanted to comment on your blog article, that suggests that for those ordering the NEC PA series monitors, it may be better to order the i1Display Pro, for exactly this reason: that it will be useable on most any monitor (with i1 Profiler or similar software), and still be functional for use with SpectraView.

Cost for ordering this generic colorimeter, plus Spectraview software, is a bit more than ordering the BK-SV option, but at least it will function for most monitors, not just NEC PA series. For anyone who wants to calibrate other non-PA monitors, it ultimately is more cost effective.

DIGLLOYD: NEC tells me that the bundled colorimeter has some tweaks for use during calibration by SpectraView II, but that the final calibrated results should be equivalent when using the generic XRite i1 Display Pro.

Either way, use of the SpectraView II software is essential (calibrating with anything else is almost certainly faux calibration).

Cleaning a Computer Display

Get micro fiber cloth or Zeiss micro fiber cloth at B&H Photo.

Matt S writes

I recently bought the NEC PA272 based on your work and I really love it. Thanks!

How do you clean your monitor? Mine is inexplicably dirty already.

DIGLLOYD: I clean my displays with a micro fiber cloth, or the cloth that Apple ships with laptops. See also The How-To Geek Guide to Cleaning Your LCD Monitor Screen.

I asked NEC about cleaning NEC displays, with this response:

We generally only recommend water and a microfiber cloth (that’s all my service group will approve).

  Don’t Use Atlas PERMA-GUARD to Clean an LED Display NEC PA322UHD 32-inch display
Don’t Use Atlas PERMA-GUARD to Clean an LED Display
NEC PA322UHD 32-inch display

Shootout: Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC vs Nikon 28mm f/4 PC (Church, 11mm Rise)

  Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC on Nikon D810
Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon
28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC

Get Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM Aspheric at B&H Photo.

To my review of the Schneider PC-TS Super Angulon 28/4.5 HM ASPH is added an aperture series comparison versus the Nikon 28mm f/4 PC.

Schneider PC-TS 28mm f/4.5: Church, 11m rise (D810)

This scene turns out to be surprisingly instructive in what is going on with the imaging field of the Schneider (and the Nikon 28/4 PC); it bears directly on important behavior that anyone using the lens ought to note.

  Let there be light Nikon D810 + Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC @ f/11
Let there be light
Nikon D810 + Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC @ f/11

Shift Lens Stitching

Yesterday’s interview with Ming Thein led one reader to inquire about shift lens stitching.

Some years ago I was doing shift-lens stitching, always seeking really good optics (which never happened!), see Equipment for shift lens stitching from 2006. Also, Really Right Stuff sells specialty brackets for multi-row rotational stitching. Related reading:

Funny how this 26 megapixel image from the 12-megapixel Canon 5D seemed high-res at the time. Now we talk about 80 megapixels from 36 instead of 26 from 12.

Click for larger image.

Quarry House, Norway Canon 5D-IR + Nikon 85mm f/2.8D PC-Micro-Nikkor, stitched image
Quarry House, Norway
Canon 5D-IR + Nikon 85mm f/2.8D PC-Micro-Nikkor, stitched image
Tioga Lake, 2009-05-30 09:42 Canon 5D-IR + Coastal Optics 60mm f/4 UV-VIS-IR APO Macro, infrared stitched 75MP
Tioga Lake, 2009-05-30 09:42
Canon 5D-IR + Coastal Optics 60mm f/4 UV-VIS-IR APO Macro, infrared stitched 75MP

An Interview with Ming Thein on His High-Definition “Ultraprint”

See also A conversation with Ming Thein on the Pentax 645Z and Nikon D810 and More.

Ming Thein of MingThein.com is a professional photographer half way around the world (from me) whose work is first class. Ming and I enjoyed a shoot together in early September 2014 at Purisima Creek Redwoods Open Space Preserve.

Ming sent me one of his stunning Ultraprints from that shoot. This Q/A interview is all about his approach to what I’d term “hi-def printing”, which he terms The Ultraprint.

Purisima Creek Redwoods ©2014 Ming Thein
Purisima Creek Redwoods ©2014 Ming Thein

LC: Ming, I received the Ultraprint you sent me, taken during our outing together at the redwoods. Examining it in daylight (my preference) I took in a first impression which for me means an overall gander (visual impact) followed by looking at fine details, color and contrast and so on.

The word “ultra” implies a high level of excellence, so I was intrigued to have that opportunity using an image you shot while not far from me in those redwoods that day so I had some frame of reference (rather than some place I had never been). My first impressions was “dang!" - since I had been there a number of times and the scene you shot really captured the creek and overhanging branches and so on—something I’ve found really hard to do. So as far as I’m concerned it is/was a very successful image consistent with the impressive quality of your other work in other ‘parts. That’s the artistic angle, well done.

Technically, there were several subtle things that emerged as I engaged with the image. I first notice a critical sharpness “beyond my eyes” meaning unless I had visual aid there was no point in saying more about sharpness! But beyond sharpness I noted a natural look to the details, a freedom from any harsh edges, transitions, etc, all of which add to the sharpness in ways that make the result really enjoyable. Paper quality is really excellent, too. In addition, the color rendition I know is very hard to get right in that venue, and it was nailed.

My only “complaint” is that as I age I more and more prefer larger prints because in less bright light my eyes cannot focus as close. So for me, something around 30 X 20 is much more comfortable. But in this case I was outside and the bright light allows me to view at close range.

So let’s talk about what an Ultraprint is, meaning what is the photographic goal, general approach, what discipline and care is required and what you hope to achieve by making what is a very high grade print which might be summarized as “like a contact print of old” - only better!

MT: Thank you. We've tried our best - and continue to do so - to make the Ultraprints the *best* prints we know how, in every way - color accuracy, resolution, continuity of tone - all for one reason: to lead to a sense of immersion and transparency.

Looking through the print and at a scene, instead of looking at a representation of the scene, in other words. I chose that image precisely because you had a frame of reference of the actual scene, so you could assess it on its technical merits and fidelity to the feeling of being there. I'm glad it passed - there was a high bar, as I know Purisima Creek is very familiar to you - and it was my first time there. I admit I was probably not firing on all cylinders either; it'd been a very heavy two weeks leading up to that day.

The initial goal of the Ultraprint was to condense all of the information from these high megapixel cameras into something that you could actually appreciate at a reasonable scale, and at a single glance - much like the real world. (You can see a detailed comparison between a normal print and an Ultraprint here.)

My print buyers didn't have the space to store or hang larger images - nor do I. We don't have quite as much space in Asian homes. However, the goal has subsequently morphed from that into a question of bringing the experience of being there to the viewer in the form of a print.

Resolution is not the objective, though it is an important cornerstone of the Ultraprint: it enables very fine tonal gradations, which is what represents both spatial detail as well as continuity of tone. I could print the same image at a lower resolution - Ultraprints are now 720 PPI - and probably not compromise much on the level of detail *your eyes* can resolve, but it would not have the same perceived continuity of tone.

We have to go beyond what the eyes can resolve in order to do that. 720 PPI is at the threshold for most people with perfect vision, at their nearest focusing distance. At this point, we are actually resolution limited by the *paper*; even with the finest grained matte fiber paper with smooth non-expanding coatings, this is about as good as it gets. Which is really not bad, since we can resolve details about 1/3-1/2 the width of a human hair.

In a digital context, it's much like the difference between a normal screen and one of Apple's 'retina' displays - night and day, though you do get used to it. Except the best Retina displays are at 453ppi, and look positively coarse under high magnification compared to an Ultraprint. Back to your comment about size - the only way to go bigger is to have more pixels. And pixel quality is very important too, for both color accuracy and edge resolution - the 12x16" print you have was made from a D810 stitch of three images, for a total of about 80MP. I am working on a series that goes much larger, and has incredible visual *punch* - but we're talking about stitching 50+ images to make a 24x60".

LC: Might it be fair to call this an attempt at “immersive” photography by make the viewing experience as free from the limits of recording (capture and print both)?

MT: Absolutely. Ultraprinting is a convenient name for an entire idea and workflow: knowing what you can accurately represent in print; then finding appropriate subjects; capturing them with the highest possible image quality and shot discipline, then ensuring that translation to paper is faithful. It necessitates the photographer to sit through endless proofs to tweak color by minute amounts to a (hopefully) accurate memory.

The problem I have is that this never translates online: a web jpeg of the image looks terrible because you've got perhaps 1% of the information, or less. The irony of course is that in trying to free yourself from the limits, you come across some very prosaic ones - like wind ruining your 60-image stitch…or the fact that you can only use the centre 50% area of your lenses because of corner issues.

LC: If I understand correctly, you are adding to the “resolution” (information content) with another kind of “resolution”: tonal transition quality, gradient quality of smooth tones and so on.

MT: Yes. Tonal quality is also very much linked to resolving power of your output medium: if you have a line, and only two pixels, you can represent that edge with no information. But if you have that same edge crossing say 100 pixels, it's easy to resolve roughness (texture) contrast (reflections, perhaps highlights) and (irregularity) spatial information. Imagine this now with color information, too. Information is conveyed by spatial frequency, which is really alternation in tone. Resolving power and tonality are not separable, and I think at the core of what changes the experience from 'looking at a print' to 'looking at the scene'. Reality is not single- or posterized-tone; it's beautifully continuous.

LC: These stitches employ shift lenses I presume so as to avoid parallax issues, since the Purisima Creek Image had severe challenges that rotational stitching would be very difficult to work with (precise rotation about entrance pupil). But with so many images, perhaps not shift lenses?

MT: Your particular image was made with a shift lens. But most of the time, I don't get enough shift range to exceed the 80MP / 12x16" equivalent size; I've got to do a spherical stitch. And the reality is that most shift lenses are not up to scratch optically.

LC: For these reason, the best lenses like Zeiss Otus contribute to some of the ’transparency’ by preserving as much tonal subtlety as possible?

MT: Absolutely. The largest stitches - the Forest series - are made with Otii or the 2/135 APO, which is pretty close. Capturing as much information as possible and as accurately as possible is very important; that's both color information and resolution. Our subconscious is very sensitive to color; it will register something as being 'off' if the balance isn't right. This is especially critical with natural subjects as we have a very strong concept of what color grass or sky should be, for instance.

LC: There you have it over me—I’ve done the color tests and I rank quite high (in a percentile sense, 99.9😜 but as my eyes age they are less good. Back to the artistic side, many coveted prints are technically not so great. But they succeed because of ‘message’. What is your message?

MT: On the artistic side, it's not so much a message (that can be down to an individual project; e.g. 'Verticality' is about the smallness and insignificance of the creator in the world he has created') - as an experience. The prints are about the experience of being there - or as close to it as we can get. And if I can take you to places that aren't so easily accessible, but which perhaps convey a nice sense of calm (forests, for instance) then it becomes a unique little portal of escape you can hang in your home or office. It isn't about an image anymore: it's about using the image to convey a feeling and transport you to another place in an immersive way. In the long run, it probably means I have to go even bigger. Right now we have some computing challenges (and printer buffer challenges) - but I'm working on a stitch at present that would cover a normal ceiling at 240PPI :)

LC: Let me play devil’s advocate: “immersive” to me means something around six feet wide. But I only have wall space for 3 or so such prints! Call it “like life” or “larger than life”, I have trouble getting into prints smaller than about 3 feet wide, regardless of the artist. Which is partly physical (eyes), but otherwise just what I like most. Photographs are successful for many different reasons: historical or famous, subject alone (place, time, celebrity), but some photographs lack such references and thus have to stand on their own, and that mean artistic excellence and ideally, technical excellence. So the “portal” you speak of seems to aim for the latter, it being a bit harder to round up famous people or historical events! So by what metrics of success do you judge your work, given the above (or other)?

MT: I'm going to ask you a question in return before I address your other points: did you get immersed in the Ultraprint I sent?

LC: No, because it is too small, and the place is large and cathedral like. I respond very strongly to large outdoor spaces (see all my mountain shooting). At relatively small sizes (16 inches for that print), the print is excellent, but I cannot “be in the scene” at a small size. This is true in general for me and not a comment on that print. I want to feel like I’m there, and I don’t feel that with smaller prints.

I should explain a bit more— when I’m in one of these “cathedral space” outdoors (redwoods, wide open mountains, etc), I have an almost 3D sense of the place, and it is multi-factorial: sight, sounds, touch and so on that all wire me in. In a way I visualize the place *while there* and when I’m zoned into it I am conscious of the place as a whole. It is very hard to get close to that even in a large superb print. After all, this is a 2D medium. So the best approximation of the feeling of a place needs to get to some wider visual field of view (I am strongly visual dominant), and for that I (*I*) feel the need for large prints.

MT: That is an eyesight challenge; a larger print simply occupies more of your field of view. The same thing happens with a smaller print, except your eyes tend to run out of focus distance first and prints tend to run out of steam at an absolute resolving power level. I'm seriously going to suggest you try it again with reading glasses :)

Remember that the original gestation of the Ultraprint was because large prints are not practical for cost and space reasons. That, and it's also really difficult to pick one image you could live with for a long time to the potential exclusion of others. But it is one of the reasons I'm going larger with the next series of Ultraprints - I hold that level of detail out to much larger sizes; Forest III was the first of these at 40x15", and I plan to go as large as about 40x40". Most of them will be panoramics precisely to give you this sense of exceeding your visual field of view, intended to be viewed from about a foot or foot and a half way. But this of course reduces the potential audience because of size and cost…and makes it very expensive to even proof properly. I'm confident you'll get your immersiveness at this size, but with significant other compromises.

To answer you question about standing alone and judging work - I have to go back to the original objective. Does it feel immersive? Do I feel like I'm there? If not, then it doesn't work. This of course assumes that the scene is one that I want to be present at in the first place - a smelly garbage-filled alleyway in the middle of the night is probably *not* something you want to be immersed in. But realizing the size conundrum, I agree that I need to go bigger. 20x30", at least. This of course limits subjects too since I have to stitch. A life-size wave would be awesome, but impossible because I'd need a single capture array of at least several hundred megapixels.

LC: I’d agree that reading glasses would help just to be able to get closer to a smaller print (field of view). Can also work in very bright light. Well, this would not be an issue at a younger age and I do not say it is how others might react. I certainly was drawn to the clarity and real-ness of the image! I think in a way it is “user interface“: how much viewer effort is needed. Another example: going to a museum, I love the large late 1800’s painting that are huge wall size things. I walk on by the 1-2 foot images because they just seem to require too much effort, useless the museum allows close inspection, which helps a lot (some don’t).

MT: You can get as close as you like to these. Even the large ones. And the large ones are very surreal when examined like that - they work both at conventional viewing distances and with a loupe. I honestly wish I had the museum problem with these, though - then we'd just calculate what the resolving power of the eye is at minimum 'velvet rope' distance, exceed it slightly, and see how big we can go!

LC: Well, the print is terrific. And big is wrong for some small places. Posing a “future” question: what if we had digital wallpaper of print quality? The same quality metrics ought to come to bear and distinguish between the Ultraprint grade and ordinary.

MT: Hah! I'd be the first in line, and I think it probably isn't that far off, actually. I'd also like a 'white' setting so I can use it to construct light for still life work. But it does say to me that since I missed the mark on immersiveness for you (albeit due to ageing eyesight), there's still room for improvement. Next time we meet I'll bring a large Forest. Interestingly, as good as the iMac 5k is, it's still only 218PPI.

LC: But 218ppi at 2 feet is pretty darn hard to see pixels. So to bring it back to the print and setting aside my own eyes - the Ultraprint captures a level of detail that is pretty incredible and influences my perception of it significantly. Also, when I studied it at closer range, yes it was immersive in the sense of bringing a smile to my face in seeing all the details there and to be explored. I confess I am looking forward to the NEC 32” 4K display just because I love such details.

So let me call it “highly engaging”, because I took the word “immersive” more literally. Readers who have not viewed an Ultraprint ought to—and I might be remiss in this regard in being too out of band as per the medium itself. Yet ordinary prints show limits that just are not there in the Ultraprint. Setting aside professional excellence and pride in making the best possible print (kudos), do you think most people appreciate the degree of effort that goes into the prints? Might it not take 5 or 10 or 20 years for the core concept to really break into its own form?

MT: I'm sure we'll get to immersive, even for the long sighted - it's a matter of size. But I wouldn't want to compromise in any way because *I know it can be done* - and anything less would just defeat the point of attempting to push the boundaries of perception in print.

You're probably right: most people have no idea how much work goes into making a finished print - from the 60-image stitches with thousands of manual control points to the dozens of proofs to the modifications to the printer. And because I cannot translate or even begin to convey the physical viewing experience digitally, I am sure it's being dismissed summarily by a lot of people who might otherwise enjoy such a print. It's very difficult to imagine if you've never seen one in person, and physical limitations mean it's obviously not practical to send these things around as samples. Plus the paper surface is of course delicate and doesn't respond well to excessive handling, much like any print.

There are plans for an exhibition in Chicago in October next year at the Rangefinder Gallery, and another one tentatively on the cards for Hong Kong in November; hopefully I can get a few more places interested. Funny thing is most of the skeptics have become very vocal converts after seeing the prints in person. The good news is that as display pixel density increases, I think people are going to find it easier to imagine and visualize what 720PPI looks like.

LC: Corollary: your compositions are always very strong. And that is the first thing that makes the image. Would you print an image not at Ultraprint resolution grade and really worry in any way about it, given the right composition? Photography has plenty of not so sharp images coveted by collectors.

MT: Would I print strong images that don't make Ultraprint grade? Sure - either as smaller Ultraprints, or with very clear caveats that it is not an Ultraprint. Sometimes the idea and the moment outweigh all, and you only get a single capture. Stitching for ultimate resolution is nothing new, of course - so it should be that hard to understand. The difficult part to understand is the consistency of vision/ idea that goes into the workflow to make the most of the medium, and the fact that we can really put down all of that information into a sensible-sized print.

LC: The Ultraprint quality goal intrigues me, because I’ve long felt that if I’m going to make an image, I want to capture it at maximal quality (resolution, color, dynamic range, etc). That dynamic seems at work for you too. But today cameras are “good enough” meaning that the whole Ultraprint goal is not a priority for many shooters. They’re not stitching and they’re shooting, say, 16 megapixels. What say you?

MT: Here's my question: if you have all that resolution, what are you doing with it if not printing? There's actually no way to view even the output in full. This, plus the size and cost limitations of large prints are why we have Ultraprints at all. It felt like something was missing from the prints - at all sizes. I could *see* through them, in a way, and that sort of ruined the experience for me and made me unhappy with the output. Finding a print master who will also support you through this is another challenge entirely, of course.

LC: Who is your printer?

MT: I use Wesley Wong at Giclee Art in Kuala Lumpur - I actually interviewed him here a little while ago. We both decided we could go further with the output - and he is my indispensable partner in the creation of both the Ultraprint process and the prints themselves, and a very close friend.

LC: Any advice for those looking to aim for Ultraprint quality?

MT: As for making Ultraprints - it isn't just about the output hardware or the capture or the number of pixels. You can make a high resolution image of something that is boring, have a lot of poor pixels and then totally mess up the color - or not have enough resolution to satisfy the printer. And none of those will be an Ultraprint. It is important to know what you're trying to achieve with the output so that every creative choice you have - which lens, what color balance, how much contrast etc. - can be made with the end in mind, even if the end goal is as simple as something like 'the feeling of looking up in a forest'. Simple is actually hard…

LC: How can someone buy an Ultraprint?

MT: I offer a selection of prints via my gallery site and the main site, or you can request any of my images from here or the flickr page as an Ultraprint here - note that not all images are Ultraprintable because of technical limitations, and sizes are may be restricted. As for the editions on the gallery and main site, I strictly limit the number I print - simply because I believe in exclusivity, and because I also believe that I'll also make different and better images in future - it's an evolution. Smaller sizes also mean better accessibility price-wise.

LC: You do teaching and workshops, are you offering one that dovetails with the Ultraprint goal?

MT: Back to translation of idea into capture, and capture via workflow into the highest image quality possible with your equipment - and all of the intermediate steps. I generally bring some prints because students are curious to see them; once I show the workflow then they have an understanding of just how much effort goes into creating one of these images. But it all still goes back to the photographer: a poor idea is going to make a mediocre image regardless of the capture and output. So I tend to focus on the conceptual and compositional parts before output.

LC: Thank you Ming, for sharing your insights and clarity of purpose.

MT: Thank you!

   A selection of limited edition Ultraprint images is available from The Gallery; in addition I am planning future large format editions in the Forest series, which will be announced here. The next image will be Forest IV, shown below and available in early January as a 57x22" Ultraprint. Further reading on the Ultraprint can be found here, in the rationale behind the pursuit of clarity.

_8B10776-844 forest iv small
Image ©2014 Ming Thein

Postscript

Years ago I also did some shift-lens stitching, see Equipment for shift lens stitching. Today, Really Right Stuff sells specialty brackets for multi-row rotational stitching.

I have a hunch that the NEC PA322W UHD will get me to the first stage of the “immersive” level, by dint of size and pixel density. Moreover a transmissive medium is highly attractive for its contrast range and gamut (assuming a top notch display). A print being reflective has inherent limitations, barring some nifty new quantum Baryta paper development. It is akin to a very large transparency versus a large print. And I always did like 4 X 5 chromes and/or projected slides.

What I really love about digital display is that the medium itself lets me zoom in—no eye limitations, no resolution top end (source is the only limit)—if I see an area that interests me, I can zoom in. No print can do this. I am looking forward to 8K and 16K displays (108 and 256 megapixels). At that point, I am not sure a print can compete except for what it is: a print. But can a digital display ever compete with the collectible nature of a tangible print? That’s hard in the art world, but perhaps this can happen as some sort of crypto-image future tech where one sells/buys “right to display” digital immersions.

Sony Image Stabilization

Get Sony Alpha A7 II at B&H Photo.

Also, in-depth review of the Sony A7 and A7R.

The Sony Alpha A7 II mirrorless camera introduces 5-axis in-body image stabilization along with an improved grip and strengthened lens mount. It’s not yet available in the USA according to B&H Photo, but ought to be soon.

As far as I know, full-frame sensor 5-axis image stabilization sees its debut in the A7-II.

So one naturally wonders when the A7R-II will arrive and whether it might also include image stabilization, but I for one would settle for an A7R-II which offered an EFC shutter to eliminate the shutter vibration problem. Image stabilization is not a fix for shutter vibration. So (hope beyond) hope: sensor image stabilization along with elimination of shutter vibration would be sweet.

In the Olympus E-M1 / Olympus E-M5 at least, the 5-axis in-body image stabilization is outstanding. It’s the only image stabilization that works for wild rides. So if it works equally well in the Sony A7-II, that rocks.

It’s worth remembering that when shooting handheld, image sharpness is a total sum game: optical performance, aperture, shutter vibration (or not), image stabilization and shutter speed, etc. It’s possible that the A7-II thus might offer a unique capability not possible with any other camera, at least for some time. Now if we could just have Sony execute it all with 14-bit raw instead of 11+7 bit lossy compressed.

Email Notifications for Site Content: Option Also for MacPerformanceGuide

An email notification service is in place for subscribers. It is opt-in, meaning that unless you ask to be put onto the list, you will not get email notifications of site updates. You can choose daily or weekly updates. Details...

Now available: updates for MacPerformanceGuide.com and/or WindInMyFace.com. Each site gets its own email, so if all three sites change on any given day, you’d receive three emails, one per site (weekly choice would be one per week).

Specify: diglloyd and/or mac and/or wind.

Faster Photoshop Scratch for Memory-Limited Macs with Thunderbolt 2

It’s always better to max-out memory if/when performance is suffering from too-little memory in Photoshop.

But all Macs have limits: 16GB for MacBook Pro and MacMini, 32GB for iMac, 64/128GB for 2013 Mac Pro.

Once memory is maxed-out, the Photoshop scratch disk is the next recourse—it should be as fast as possible. For those with Thunderbolt 2 capable Macs, the new OWC Thunderbay Mini with SSDs fits the bill nicely, beating out even the lightning-fast 1TB SSD in the MacBook Pro Retina.

Thunderbay Mini with SSDs as a Photoshop Scratch Disk

  OWC Thunderbay Mini 4-bay enclosure
OWC Thunderbay Mini 4-bay enclosure

Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC: Full Shift with and without Correction for Color Errors

  Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC on Nikon D810
Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon
28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC

Get Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM Aspheric at B&H Photo.

See existing review of Schneider PC-TS 90mm f/4.5 and 50mm f/2.8.

To my review of the Schneider PC-TS Super Angulon 28/4.5 HM ASPH is added an aperture series at full shift which shows the image quality with and without correction for lateral chromatic aberration, and discusses the central and peripheral image quality.

Schneider PC-TS 28mm f/4.5: Drive Train, 12mm Shift (D810)

This subject is particularly good for this purpose with its metal and high contrast edges.

Crops are shown from f/4.5 to f/16 with and without color correction for lateral chromatic aberration, for easy comparison.

  Drive Train, f/13 Nikon D810 + Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC @ f/13
Drive Train, f/13
Nikon D810 + Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC @ f/13

Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC: First Look

  Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC on Nikon D810
Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon
28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC

Get Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM Aspheric at B&H Photo.

See existing review of Schneider PC-TS 90mm f/4.5 and 50mm f/2.8.

I kick off my review of the Schneider PC-TS Super Angulon 28/4.5 HM ASPH with an aperture series at close range which shows general performance. The findings here are consistent with some other shooting, to be shown soon. After some initial mundane subject matter which is nonetheless highly instructive, I’ll move on to buildings and so on.

Schneider PC-TS 28mm f/4.5: Maple Trees at Close Range, 12mm Fall (D810)

This scene is shot at 12mm “fall” (downward shift).

  Maple Trees, f/13 Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC + Nikon D810
Maple Trees, f/13
Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC + Nikon D810

 

LG 31MU97 4K Display (4096 X 2160), canceled

See Readers Inquire About LG 31MU97 31-inch 4K Display.

Update: I’ve decided to skip evaluation of this display, because it is not properly supported by Macs and of concerns I’m seeing out there on the web.

I like tried and true and fully supported by a company that knows Macs, so I’m sticking with the NEC PA322UH Perhaps at a later date, when things settle out.

* Mac OS 10.9.3 and later versions are supported
* 4096x2160 resolution will be supported in upcoming Mac OS X release.

  LG 31MU97-B OS X resolutions
LG 31MU97-B OS X resolutions

4K Televisions Plummet in Price

My jaw dropped when I some of the discounts being offered on 4K televisions. Many of these are Black Friday deals thru Nov 22, but can be ordered now.

Samsung 4K televisions prices in some cases are half off, like 50" for $798. or 55" for $1198.

Sony 4K UHD televisions have huge discounts also, like 54.6" 4K for $1798.

These huge TVs have free shipping as well. Amazon also has 4K Sony TVs and 4K Samsung TVs at blowout prices.

Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC: the Beast Arrives

Get Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM Aspheric at B&H Photo.

See existing review of Schneider PC-TS 90mm f/4.5 and 50mm f/2.8.

The Schneider PC-TS 28/4.5 HM ASPH is a beast. Under no conditions would I want to strain the lens mount by having it support the 1608g lens (without caps), since most of that weight is well forward. Thus, the built-in tripod foot is essential, and kudos to Schneider that builds in dovetail that mounts directly into my Really Right Stuff clamp on my Arca Swiss Cube.

Will the Schneider PC-TS 28/4.5 deliver the goods? Its predecessor, the Schneider 28mm f/2.8 PC-Super-Angulon (shift only) was good for its time, but a dud on a 36MP DSLR.

At about $8300, Schneider PC-TS 28/4.5 is clearly intended for the professional market. If if delivers optically, those professionals needing its capabilities will find the price manageable. But at least by the pound/kilo, it’s a much better deal than the Leica 50/2 APO!

Review of the Schneider PC-TS Super Angulon 28/4.5 HM ASPH will be in DAP.

Cick for larger view.

  Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC on Nikon D810
Schneider PC-TS Super-Angulon 28mm f/4.5 HM ASPHERIC on Nikon D810

 

It’s Savings Season: Nikon, Canon, Olympus, Leica M

Everyone likes discounts, but they carry pain too, devaluaing the used-market price of all my gear. What has never been discounted to my knowledge? My trusty Zeiss lenses (for Canon or Nikon).

Nikon

Discounts on Nikon lenses when purchased with camera body

$400 off Nikon D610 plus goodies

Canon

Canon lens rebates expire Nov 22.

Olympus

Olympus EM-5 $400 off at $599

Leica M

See also Leica M discounts. Update: the lens rebates on Leica M are now up, see the handy links on the Leica gear page to find any particular lens.

Zeiss 55/1.4 APO-Distagon Aperture Series: Glacial Blue, Winter’s Icy Hint (Nikon D810)

  Zeiss 55mm f/1.4 APO-Distagon
Zeiss 55mm f/1.4 APO-Distagon

In Guide To Zeiss:

Zeiss 55/1.4 APO-Distagon: Glacial Blue, Winter’s Icy Hint

Includes HD and UltraHD images from ƒ/1.4 to ƒ/16 along with crops and commentary.

Funny how the landscape influences the choice of lens: in some cases the 85/1.4 APO-Planar seems the right choice, with the 55/1.4 APO-Distagon just not fitting things. But in this glaciated area the 55/1.4 APO-Distagon just felt right for the scenery.

One cannot do better than with the 55/1.4 APO and the 85/1.4 APO, and I’m hoping for a 28/1.4 Otus to round out the range.

Glacial Blue, Winter’s Icy Hint  Nikon D810 + Zeiss Otus 55mm f/1.4 APO-Distagon @ f/1.4
Glacial Blue, Winter’s Icy Hint
Nikon D810 + Zeiss Otus 55mm f/1.4 APO-Distagon @ f/1.4

Nikon 20mm f/1.8G ED Aperture Series: Mt Conness Glacier Remnants

Get Nikon 20mm f/1.8 at B&H Photo.

  Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20/1.8G ED

In my review of the Nikon 20/1.8G in DAP, this aperture series complements Glacial Erratics in Blue Skylight, Westering Sunstar and Glacial Erratic to High Peak. See also Dusk Shooting and Night Shooting.

Nikon 20/1.8G Aperture Series: Mt Conness Glacier Remnants

Includes the ƒ/1.8 - ƒ/16 aperture range in HD and UltraHD sizes in color and black and white, as well as large crops across that full range.

The 20/1.8G is a fine lens and I now comfortable recommending it as the best wide angle Nikon offers. At about $797, it’s a steal for what it delivers.

  Mt Conness Glacier Remnants Nikon D810 + AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED @ ƒ/5.6
Mt Conness Glacier Remnants
Nikon D810 + AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED @ ƒ/5.6

Leica M Typ 240 is $750 off, plus $250 off Leica M Lenses

In a rare (very rare) move for Leica, the M240 is now $750 off. This seems to presage a model revision of some kind because the M-P cannot explain it.

Add the M240 to cart to see price. Black or silver.

  Leica M240 discount
  Leica M lens rebates

Leica M lens rebates

Rebates of $250 or so, plus B&H has a 2% rewards and free expedited shipping.

See the handy links on the Leica gear page to find any particular lens. Some of my favorites which currently have a rebate:

See prices for all Leica gear.

  Zeiss ZM 35mm f/1.4 Distagon
Zeiss ZM 35mm f/1.4 Distagon

Best lens for M

As a side note, the very best lens for the M240 is the Zeiss ZM 35mm f/1.4 Distagon. At least that would be my #1 choice and it’s a raging buy compared to Leica’s prices.

Why? See my review of the Zeiss ZM 35mm f/1.4 Distagon.

Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 Distagon vs Nikon 20mm f/1.8G: Mt Conness Glacier

  Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 Distagon
Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 Distagon

The Zeiss ZF.2/ZE 21mm f/2.8 Distagon has long reigned as the champ in the ~21mm range for its high brilliance and strong control of color aberrations.

In Guide to Zeiss:

Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 Distagon vs Nikon 20mm f/1.8G: Mt Conness Glacier

Aperture series through f/16 with large crops and extensive performance analysis.

The Nikon 20/1.8G aperture series will be posted in the review of the Nikon 20mm f/1.8G soon.

  Mt Conness Glacier Nikon D810 + Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 Distagon @ ƒ/9
Mt Conness Glacier
Nikon D810 + Zeiss 21mm f/2.8 Distagon @ ƒ/9

Nikon 20mm f/1.8G ED Aperture Series: Glacial Erratic to High Peak

Get Nikon 20mm f/1.8 at B&H Photo.

  Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20/1.8G ED

In my review of the Nikon 20/1.8G in DAP. It complements Glacial Erratics in Blue Skylight, Westering Sunstar.

Nikon 20/1.8G Aperture Series: Glacial Erratic to High Peak (D810)

Includes the ƒ/1.8 - ƒ/16 aperture range in HD and UltraHD sizes in color and black and white, as well as large crops across that full range.

The 20/1.8G is a fine lens and I now comfortable recommending it as the best wide angle Nikon offers. At about $797, it’s a steal for what it delivers.

  Glacial Erratic to High Peak  Nikon D810 + AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED @ ƒ/9
Glacial Erratic to High Peak
Nikon D810 + AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED @ ƒ/9

Nikon 20mm f/1.8G: Dusk Shooting, f/1.8 vs f/2.8

Get Nikon 20mm f/1.8 at B&H Photo.

  Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED
Nikon AF-S Nikkor 20/1.8G ED

The Nikon 20mm f/1.8G shows great potential for night shooting.

In my review of the Nikon 20/1.8G in DAP

Shooting at Dusk: f/1.8 vs f/2.8 (D810, Egg Erratic)

This study should be useful to anyone shooting in dim light considering whether to use f/1.8 or f/2.8: the differences are significant, but the choice is one of several considerations.

See also Night Shooting.

  Egg Erratic, Dusk Nikon D810 + AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED @ ƒ/1.8
Egg Erratic, Dusk
Nikon D810 + AF-S Nikkor 20mm f/1.8G ED @ ƒ/1.8

Mac Pro Workhorse

A 2009 Mac Pro remain a solid workhorse and can be had at a big cost savings over the 2013 Mac Pro.

4TB of SSD or 8TB of HDD in Thunderbolt 2 Mini Enclosure

High performance in a compact package.

OWC Offers Thunderbay Mini, Thunderbolt 2 Enclosure for 2.5-Inch SSDs or Hard Drives

  OWC Thunderbay Mini 4-bay enclosure
OWC Thunderbay Mini 4-bay enclosure

Sony 16-35mm f/4 for A7 Cameras

Get Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS for Sony E mount.

The new Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS for Sony A7 series cameras should arrive late next week for testing, to be tested on the Sony A7R for Guide to Mirrorless.

  Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS
Sony Vario-Tessar T* FE 16-35mm f/4 ZA OSS

 

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